Live from Occupy Wall Street – May Day 2012

I have always enjoyed the fact that my birthday falls on May Day. In my younger years, I felt that it carried both reason and resonance, setting the tone for a life I hoped would be marked by the hippie spirit of the pagan flower and fertility rituals that inspired the holiday. That is, I believed that being born on May Day meant I had some affinity–perhaps hidden but running deep– with nature, peace, and music. My reasons for all of this were vague, symbolic, and somewhat sentimental. Accompanying these beliefs were hazy daydreams of walking barefoot through tall, fragrant grass, being able to approach and befriend wild deer and foxes, and circle-dances with blossom-laden maidens. I also harbored the secret pride of having a birthday on a special day, one marked on calendars and remarked upon by friends, but not big enough to usurp the attention from myself, a fate for those poor fools born on Christmas, Thanksgiving, or another major holiday.

Once I hit college and began to understand history as more than the excuse for commemorative holidays, and collective action as more than the wave at a football game, I found another reason to celebrate my birthday as auspicious and meaningful: International Workers’ Day. Originally memorializing the Haymarket Affair in Chicago, where police violently dispersed a public assembly during a general strike, the holiday has become a worldwide event for the working class to voice their frustrations, hopes, and demands. Demonstrations and strikes on International Workers’ Day are usually hosted by labor, socialist, communist, and anarchist groups. More recently, immigrant groups in the U.S. have rallied around May Day to call for immigrant rights, workers rights, and amnesty for undocumented workers, protesting Arizona’s anti-immigration bill and other draconian immigration reform legislation. So I added justice, resistance to oppression, and social equality to the list of principles enshrined in my birthday, and by proxy, I hoped, in myself.

But let’s be honest, my birthday has usually been about cake, presents, and parties. And for the most part, I was fine with that.

But yesterday, on my 25th birthday, I found myself in New York City, jobless (by choice as I pursue a passion project) and homeless (by that I mean living with a friend for free), my worries about the future looming large against the backdrop of a nearly-finished Freedom Tower on the Manhattan skyline, more than a decade after 9/11 clouded the city in dust and ash and sent us reeling into a future of war and recession that none of us had imagined. And I was on my way to a protest where I’d chant in solidarity with the 99%.

If I had to describe the last ten years of my life, I would first say that they have been beautiful and untroubled. This is despite the fact that in this span I’ve lost friends to violence, I’ve had my heart broken, I nearly died in a motorcycle accident, I couldn’t walk for almost a year, and I’ve seen poverty and death too intimately to remember without feeling, again, the way you can’t breathe or speak or even cry when confronted with true suffering. But this is what makes us human, this resilience. Some might call it strength, to find in oneself the ability to recover from the catastrophes and tragedies of life. I’ve come to believe it’s merely how we survive, the only way to keep going in the face of the abyss. It is both a blessing and a curse. It’s this same capacity to continue and normalize that can lull us to sleep, to forgetting, to complacence and acceptance of an imperfect world that needs to be better, and will only improve if we fight for it. But it’s easier to play the cynic or the child, to pretend the problems are either inevitable or too complicated to understand.

So when I told my friends that I planned to “Occupy Wall Street” on my birthday, I did so with a heavy dose of irony. An implied wink and a smile that said, “I’m in on the joke, but I’m not its punchline.” They smiled, too, because they know me as that May Day baby, a mix of flowers and revolution, the child of hippies who is prone to taking up causes but never taking them too far. For weeks, we’d seen signs and posters around the city announcing the May Day General Strike. Some of them said, “STOP EVERYTHING. May Day 2012.” Well, that’s broad, we said. What exactly are they going for? we wanted to know. We joked about the planned “Guitarmy,” a riff on “This Machine Kills Fascists,” which Woody Guthrie famously penned on his guitar. A revolutionary statement, sure, but trite and contrived as a cutely-named event. I made a sign that said, “It’s my birthday and I’ll Occupy if I want to,” a parody of my own to show that I wasn’t taking myself (or the movement) too seriously.

Around noon on the big day, Union Square was mostly deserted. Organizers were there with signs wrapped in plastic to protect them in case of rain. They said things like, “Justice For Trayvon: End Racial Profiling“; “Full Rights for Immigrants“; and “End Mass Incarceration.” A woman dressed as a circus ringmaster with long coat-tails and a top-hap ushered self-conscious bystanders onto a makeshift “runway” outlined on the ground in yellow tape while her partner took their photos and held aloft a sign that said, “Your Capitalism doesn’t go with my outfit.” Someone was burning patchouli incense and the sky was a pale shade of flat gray.

My friend Jillian met me for lunch by the square, but by the time we left there still wasn’t much action. I half-heartedly suggested we come back later and we parted ways. I had a meeting far uptown and rode the subway without reading or looking at my phone. I was looking for signs among the passengers of discontent, hints that they might throw down their newspapers, take off their ties, and insist we storm Wall Street together. Instead they shuffled in and out, pushed glasses up their noses as they thumbed through books, or stared straight ahead as music leaked out from their earphones.

My meeting, with a sound engineer I’d cold-called about advice for the Radio Tanzania project, was mostly about the technicalities of audio preservation and open reel technology. I listened and took copious notes. I hadn’t told him that it was my birthday, or that I sometimes worry I’m too old to be embarking on a massive project with no guarantee of success or salary and at the same time too young to know what I’m doing. But as we said goodbye outside of the coffee shop, he looked at me and said, “Stay stupid. You’re young enough to think you can do things that you can’t– so you’ll do them. When you get older you’ll get tired and realistic. And you’ll stop doing impossible things. But right now you have the energy to be stupid and to do things that matter. Don’t stop.”

On the way back downtown I paused before getting out at Union Square. I considered staying on the train back to Brooklyn, collapsing into bed, and taking a nap. But I had my sign and my youth and my stupidity, so I got off the train and hurried up the stairs. The sky had cleared and it was hot and blue and bright. Hundreds had arrived in the square, and I could barely edge my way into the crowd and toward the stage set up on the South side of the park. Representatives from various labor unions were taking the mic in turn, delivering fiery speeches that lasted a few minutes each. I’d heard that the Occupy protesters didn’t know what, exactly, they were protesting about. But these individuals knew. They represented the NYC yellow cab drivers, the street vendors, the heath care workers. They wanted equal pay, they wanted education for their kids, they wanted the right to unionize. They thanked the people who were there, they thanked the people who weren’t because they feared retribution from their employers. They called into question the capitalist ethic that greed is good. They demanded a better way.

I had chills listening to these speeches. I wanted to be one of them, but wasn’t sure if I deserved it. Do I have a right to be among the dissatisfied and the righteously angry? If I had a microphone in front of me, and a crowd infront of it, what would I shout out to them? Would I have anything I’m passionate about enough to say? More than that, do I know enough about any injustice (and I know there are many) to coherently argue why it exists and how to right it? And what does it say about me if the answer is no? I pride myself in knowing about the world and caring about its people. But does my life–my actions and my choices–show it?

After the speeches and the singing of some union songs, the march to Wall Street began. Dozens of NYPD officers lined the route, and people near me shouted out to them, “Join us! You’re one of us! You are the the 99 percent!” Another yelled, “Racist pigs! All cops are racist pigs!” and ran away. Spectators took photos with iPhones. I fell in step with a group led by a fiery old man with a megaphone. He prompted the call and response chants, changing the tune or rhythm every so often to keep the marchers lively.

They got bailed out. / We got sold out.

Whose street? / Our street!

We. Are. The ninety-nine percent!

Olé, olé, olé, olé. Olé, olé! 

The people. United. Will never be defeated. 

“It’s your birthday?! Well, have a very happy birthday!” a young guy marching next to me said as he read my sign. He sang and danced down the street, seeming more like a second-liner in New Orleans than a hardened New York protester. He didn’t have a sign or a cause– I think he was just there for the singing and the company. On my other side, a woman was telling her companions about getting arrested in front of the Stock Exchange last Fall. She told the story with a certain type of veiled bravado. An elderly couple carried carefully crafted signs that said, “Old people for Occupy Wall Street.” They looked giddy and proud to be there. The Veterans for Peace carried a sign with the outline of a white dove. A man dressed as Captain America waved to protestors from a third-story window. Latino teenagers dressed in black held a banner that read, “Undocumented and Unafraid.” A group of men dressed as baseball players swung bats and pointed to the team logos on their chest: Tax Dodgers.

Halfway to Wall Street, I saw my friend Brad taking photos from the sidewalk. I split from the parade and stood with him as the crowd went marching by, a wide river of humanity, part carnival, part campaign, part cry to be heard. Only by stepping away from the masses did I realize I had been one among thousands.

I didn’t make it to Wall Street and Zuccotti Park last night. I doubled back toward Union Square, met with friends, and walked to my birthday dinner. Later, we danced to 80s hits at a bar with other young, free, beautiful, and imperfect people. It might have been any other birthday night. But I knew something had changed.

But what was it? Among the many signs I saw, one sticks with me. It said: Unoccupy yourself. No injustice exists without the implicit support of those who allow it to exist. Jonathan Safran Foer writes, “It is always possible to wake someone from sleep, but no amount of noise will wake someone who is pretending to be asleep.” Have I been sleeping? Or feigning sleep?

The real question, though, is what to do once you are awake.

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Pick a Side: Kony 2012 and the problem of “Good” vs. “Evil”

We all know who Joseph Kony is now. Does it matter how and why? And what does it say about us that it took Invisible Children’s Kony 2012 video to get us here? 

Social media and identity

A few days ago I watched Invisible Children’s Kony 2012 video and felt a strong reaction swell within me– partially cerebral, partially emotional, complicated, complex, and even contradictory. I wondered how I’d fit this reaction on my Facebook and Twitter. I’d have just a sentence or 140 characters in which to express myself. I’d place a hashtag to send the small fish of my thought into a teeming ocean of ideas, most likely to be lost and ignored. And that’s the problem: Kony 2012 makes us believe that activism is just a click away. Nothing more is required of us than to be “aware,” to accept the message without question, and to pass it along without truly engaging with the ideas presented. Continue reading

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Show Me Where It Hurts

The foundation of a house in the Lower 9th Ward left as monument and testament to the destruction wreaked by Hurricane Katrina

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Three weeks in a row, after we
have made the obligatory trips
to Café du Monde and the French Quarter,
I drive visitors to the Lower Ninth Ward
to see the empty lots and abandoned homes. Continue reading

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2011 in review

Happy 2012, everyone! WordPress sent me this cool report about my blog in 2011. Any interesting fact: most of my visitors are from the United States, but they’re followed closely by followers in Finland and Tanzania! Cheers to my Finnish friends :)

The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2011 annual report for this blog.

Here’s an excerpt:

A New York City subway train holds 1,200 people. This blog was viewed about 5,000 times in 2011. If it were a NYC subway train, it would take about 4 trips to carry that many people.

Click here to see the complete report.

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For Salma

The hardest part about traveling is surely the friends you leave behind. Today I learned from my dear friend Brian that Salma, our neighbor anfriend in Bagamoyo, Tanzania in 2007, died sometime in the past two years due to complications during a botched surgery. Salma was one of the two “house girls” that lived with the Dihenga family next door to the Kunjombe’s house where I stayed. Her wild laugh, exuberance, and absolute kindness are still vivid in my memory. The day I left Bagamoyo to return to the United States, Salma paid a man with a film camera to come take photos of us. When I returned to Bagamoyo in the fall of 2009, Salma had the photos from that day in an album next to her bed. She also had a baby who was only a few months old. Brian was not able to find out what happened to the child after Salma’s death. The sadness I feel about Salma’s death bears with it a certain shame that I could not be with her and that it took me so long to find out about her passing. I’m also reminded that the injuries I sustained in Tanzania would certainly have been fatal if not for my relative wealth. I am sick with anger at the injustice that I should survive when she did not because of this fact. Continue reading

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New Orleans: A Developing Country in America?

“This isn’t America. New Orleans is like a developing country.”

In the four weeks I’ve lived in New Orleans, I’ve heard this statement from nearly ten different people. Glancing around at the Wal-Marts, the boutique frozen yogurt shops, the SUVs, and the stately houses on St. Charles Ave., it’s been hard for me believe the comparison. But the complaints about the city do parallel those I heard about and witnessed in Tanzania: there is rampant corruption. Nothing works the way it should. Everything happens slowly. The labrynthine bureaucracy slows progress. Change is slow to occur, or absent altogether. People are satisfied with the status quo. Poverty is persistent and pervasive. It’s not safe. The roads are awful and people are bad drivers. And I mean, really bad drivers. Continue reading

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A New Look at Need: Microfinance from Tanzania to New Orleans

This post first appeared on the Kiva Fellows Blog at fellowsblog.kiva.org on Oct. 1, 2011.

In 2009 when I told friends and family I was moving to Tanzania to study international development and to work for Kiva in the field of microfinance, or the furnishing of small loans to the working poor, we all had certain pre-formed ideas about how impactful and necessary my work was sure to be. We understood that in terms of GDP, literacy, infant mortality, and other common measures, Tanzania is a “developing” country, Third World, periphery. In another word: poor. As a recent college graduate, I had established ideas about poverty. It is there as opposed to here, it happens to the Other or them, not to me or mine, and so on. Therefore, a $200 loan for the purchase of a few goats to a thin, ebony-skinned woman with a brightly patterned cloth turbaned around her head made sense; it fit into my worldview, my idea of the face of poverty. The same held true for the fishmongers, the roadside bicycle repair men, and the juice vendors whose loans I helped process and post to the Kiva website. Oh yes, I knew there was poverty in the United States, but a part of me believed that for Americans, it was different. Better. Safer. More comfortable. And who in the U.S. didn’t have access to credit? I was sure that an entrepreneur with a solid business plan would find it relatively easy to acquire working capital.

Continue reading

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Do Not Be Daunted

Do not be daunted by the enormity of the world’s grief. Do justly, now. Love mercy, now. Walk humbly, now. You are not obligated to complete the work, but neither are you free to abandon it.

-Talmud

A Photo Essay of New Orleans

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‘Malaika’ guitar chords, lyrics, and translation

‘Malaika’ is one of the most famous Swahili love songs, often attributed to the Kenyan musician Fadhili William. He first recorded the song with his band the Jambo Boys in 1960. I heard this song for the first time in 2007 while living with the Kunjombe family in Bagamoyo, Tanzania. My host mother, Mariam, sang this song often. Later, I found this beautiful version performed by Harry Belafonte and Miriam Makeba.

As I’ve done with the other songs, I will provide the original lyrics in Kiswahili, the chords (as best I can), and the English translation. Enjoy! Continue reading

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‘Tanzania Nakupenda Kwa Moyo Wote’ guitar chords and lyrics

‘Tanzania Nakupenda Kwa Moyo Wote’ is a beautiful Swahili song that I heard often while living in Tanzania. It is also featured in the documentary “Darwin’s Nightmare,” a film about the exploitative weapons and fish industry on the shores of Tanzania’s Lake Victoria. I highly recommend the documentary to anyone interested in understanding ‘development,’ poverty, and human rights in Africa.

After an unsuccessful search for the tabs to “Mungu Ibariki Tanzania,” I attempted to figure them out myself. I’ve done the same thing here! Again, corrections are welcome. Also, please let me know if you know the lyrics to additional verses. Continue reading

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How We Are Entertained

In Afghanistan the ancient sport of buzkashi
is played by men on horseback
and the decapitated carcass of a goat.
The object is to toss the cadaver
into a circle drawn in dust.
It is called the Circle of Justice.
They whip and beat each other
to make it there, heels digging
into the heaving sides
of the beasts below them.
Spectators smoke opium and hashish
while children run bets to bookies.
They all hope the goat-flesh will last
as the men tear it roughly
from each other’s bloody hands.

* Continue reading

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Impressions on an Anniversary

My parents and I board a plane from Atlanta to New York City on an overcast day in late February. As soon as we enter the long terminal at Hartsfield-Jackson International, I feel the eerie liminality of air travel seal us into artificial limbo. Time and space pause at the beginning of a journey. The plane lurches from the asphalt of the runway and I close my eyes. Continue reading

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After the Rains, the Dudu

The epic battle between the pencil and the watch had nearly reached its climax. My five-year-old host brother Junior was using his considerable vocal range to breathe all the anguish and clamor of combat into the small space above my mattress where he crouched, gripping the sworn enemies in his fists.

Pah!!!! Eh heh. Bam!!! Chuzah chuzah! HA HA!

He leaped up on short, bandy legs and flew to the bed next to us, then on to the floor. Pencil stabbed into Watch, making its fluorescent face flash in agony. Watch pounded Pencil’s head ’til the lead crumbled and left a short gray streak on the pale green wall. Junior brandished the warriors in front of his compact body like nunchucks. His brow was furrowed with all the concentration of a highly-trained imagination. Finally, with one deafening roar, Watch moved in for the final kill. Junior’s arm shot up in the air like a salute, then crashed down, splitting Pencil–my only pencil–cleanly in two. My brother cackled with glee, his face alight with triumph.

Junior, acha wewe! Bas!

I yelled at him–words in Swahili for ‘Cut it out!’ and ‘Enough!’ that I’d learned quickly, from necessity–, and his eyes snapped up to lock with mine immediately. The look he gave me contained no guilt, only reproach, even a little disdain. Junior let his props fall to the ground from his now limp arms. With one last glare in my direction, he shuffled from the room, slamming the door behind him. Continue reading

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The Only Thing That Never Fails

Merlyn’s advice to young Wart, soon to be King Arthur, from TH White’s The Once and Future King:

“The best thing for being sad,” replied Merlyn, beginning to puff and blow, “is to learn something.
That is the only thing that never fails.
You may grow old and trembling in your anatomies.
You may lie awake at night listening to the disorder of your veins.
You may miss your only love.
You may see the world about you devastated by evil lunatics.
Or know your honor trampled in the sewers of baser minds.
There is only one thing for it then.
To learn.
Learn why the world wags and what wags it.
That is the only thing which the mind can never exhaust.
Never alienate.
Never be tortured by.
Never fear or distrust, and never dream of regretting.
Learning is the thing for you.
Look at what a lot of things there are to learn.
Pure science, the only purity there is.
You can learn astronomy in a lifetime, natural history in three, literature in six.
And then, after you have exhausted a million lifetimes in biology.
And medicine and theocriticism and geography and history and economics.
Why, you can start to make a cartwheel out of the appropriate wood.
Or spend fifty years learning to begin to learn to beat your adversary at fencing.
After that you can start again on mathematics.
Until it is time to learn to plow.”
*
I thank Madeline for passing this quote along to me.

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Closer to Fine

The thin layer of skin over the spot on my shin where the taxi crashed into my leg has just formed. Only two days ago it stopped bleeding and draining — the first time in seven months that I haven’t had an open wound. Though for much of this time it was small, it loomed large in the symbolism of this injury and my attempts at recovery. In the face of good news and bad, this small spot persisted. When I first came home it was a hole that went clean to the bone. Before my first surgery, what was visible was a small circle of gleaming metal, the plate that later came loose from my shattered tibia. After my surgeon removed the plate, the spot disappeared for a week before splitting wide again, a jeering smile with teeth of white bone. For months we tried everything we could: silver impregnated bandages, sterile gauze, vaseline dressings, even pure Manuka honey from New Zealand that was promoted on various alternative and traditional medicine websites. At one point, a wound “vacuum” was attached to my leg — a small machine that applied negative pressure to the wound and literally sucked out drainage, blood, and damaged flesh. It made a sound like a coffee percolator. Even that cutting edge treatment failed. The surgeon finally decided the only solution was surgery — to transplant a section of my calf muscle by rotating it over on top of the wound, providing the poorly-vascularized area with increased blood flow. Just as a thick scab covered the wound, I went in for my fifth and final surgery. Once again, the skin was cut open, and for the month following that surgery I continued to bleed from a small hole in that same area. So this thin layer, this translucent, tender area, is a small and tremendous victory in my recovery. I keep it covered and wrapped, just in case. I couldn’t bear for it to split open again. Continue reading

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